Back in autumn 2022, as winter approached, I started planning an escape from the cold season of Eastern Europe. I wanted to go somewhere not too far, where the winter would be milder, and the Asian part of Türkiye came to mind. I had only been to Istanbul once, but I knew I had to return to explore more of Türkiye’s incredible culture. My plan was to travel along the southern coast, starting in Antalya, heading towards Gaziantep, and continuing into the Middle Eastern region, reaching Diyarbakır and beyond.
But things took a different turn. Just as I was about to book my flights, I spoke with my Italian friend about my travel plans. He suggested to change my plan and step out of my comfort zone. He had just returned from a short trip to Tunisia and had a great experience visiting the capital, Tunis, and another coastal city. So, he proposed I go there instead. The flight was affordable, around €100 one way, and he assured me that once I arrived, everything would be very cheap.
I realized he was right—I should start taking my travels to the next level. But the thought was intimidating: traveling solo in North Africa, in a country I knew nothing about? Would it be a cultural shock? Different religion, Arab culture, the Sahara Desert—everything felt so unknown and a bit risky. Even Turkey, though somewhat similar, felt more European. I hesitated at first when thinking about Tunisia, but everything my friend said intrigued me, and I couldn’t help but feel curious.
That night, I couldn’t sleep, torn between the two destinations. Then it hit me—I didn’t need to overthink it. I booked the flight to Tunis and decided to embrace it as my next challenge. I really did it!
Oh well , let the adventure begin!
What I knew about Tunisia so far?
It all started during a winter trip to Sibiu, Romania, when I was still a student. I was visiting the Council Tower alone when I met a Tunisian guy named Wael, who was there with his Tunisian friend and his Moldavian wife. It was the first time I had ever met Tunisians. Wael approached me while I was admiring the panoramic view of Sibiu. He was a medical student in another Romanian city, and they were just traveling. As we talked, he began telling me amazing things about his country and showing me stunning pictures. I was blown away by how beautiful Tunisia looked, though I never imagined I’d actually get the chance to visit. Looking back, it was a beautiful first glimpse into a country I knew nothing about. I lost the contact with Wael as the time passed but I never forgot our meeting, he and his friends were so friendly and kind and we had a fun day in Sibiu, exploring together.
Few years later, I met a girl from Tunisia living in my hometown, while I was hanging out with my French friend. Since that encounter, we built a beautiful friendship but I still didn’t consider Tunisia as a destination for my next travel.
Now that I look back, I can see everything was connected and the road led me to where I was meant to be.
10th December of 2022
The day of the trip finally arrived. I packed a few long skirts, knowing I was heading to a Muslim country and wanted to dress as modestly and decently as possible. My journey included layovers in Milan and Marseille. I set off thinking everything would go smoothly—at least until I reached France. But, as it turned out, not everything went according to plan. In Milan, I faced a terrible four-hour delay, which caused me to miss my connecting flight to Tunis. I couldn’t believe it. There was no way I was canceling my trip and going back home to face winter.
Determined to save the situation, I caught the next flight to Marseille, even though I had no accommodation there and would arrive late in the evening. The thought of being alone in such a big, potentially unsafe city was daunting. I had to act fast. I reached out for locals in Marseille on a travelling platform called Couchsurfing, hoping for a quick solution. Couchsurfing lets you stay with locals for free while connecting with new people and experiencing different cultures. Instead of paying for a hotel, you stay in someone’s home and explore cities through a local’s perspective. I didn’t want to stay alone in Marseille because I didn’t feel very safe during my first visit.
When I landed, I was hit by an unexpectedly cold wind. I wasn’t prepared for this kind of weather—I was supposed to be stepping into 30°C, not freezing temperatures! Thankfully, I received a message from one of the people I contacted in Marseille, who kindly offered to host me at the last minute. He seemed reliable, so I took a bus to a metro station where he promised to meet me.
He was Algerian, and despite everything, I felt reassured. Somehow, I knew I’d make it to Tunis, and for now, I felt safe—even with a stranger in a foreign city.
He greeted me with a big coat and was incredibly welcoming as we headed to his home. His flat had a nice view of the Mediterranean, and my room was cozy and warm. He even prepared a quick meal and made sure I felt right at home.
My next mission was to book a flight to Tunisia for the following day. Said and done! I found a great deal, almost the same price to Monastir, a city not far from the capital. This complicated things a bit since my paid accommodation was in the capital, and I needed to be there on time for remote work. Still, I was happy that everything was settled and I could enjoy my night in Marseille, knowing I’d be in Africa the next day.
I fell asleep feeling very grateful to be in a safe, warm place, having met this Algerian whose heart is as warm as his homeland, Algeria.
11th of December 2022
I said goodbye to my host and headed to the airport. I knew I’d have to wait a while for my flight, but at least this time I was more confident that I would catch it. Unfortunately, things didn’t go as planned again. The flight to Monastir was delayed by more than three hours. At that point, I started to lose patience and felt desperate. I wondered why I chose this instead of going to Türkiye, where everything would have been so much easier. Then, I had a revelation — everything was happening for a reason. Suddenly, I felt like the protagonist of my favorite book, The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho, who also faced challenges on his journey.
Before a dream is realized, the Soul of the World tests everything that was learned along the way. It does this not because it is evil, but so that we can, in addition to realizing our dreams, master the lessons we’ve learned as we’ve moved toward that dream. That’s the point at which most people give up. It’s the point at which, as we say in the language of the desert, one ‘dies of thirst just when the palm trees have appeared on the horizon.
I chose to be wise, calm down and wait patiently. What is waiting at the end of the road is worth waiting for. The sun will hug me, the Saharian wind will play with my hair and life will reward me with the most beautiful smiles.
After waiting all day, counting every second and minute, I reminded myself that soon all of this would be forgotten. What mattered most was escaping Europe—its cold weather and the familiar routines—and finally embracing something new.
The flight was short, but I was a bit shocked by the airline. It was dirty, and it felt like I was heading to the afterlife rather than a real destination. They gave me a chicken sandwich, but I didn’t eat it since I’m vegan. Despite everything, as the plane was about to land, I looked out the window and saw palm trees in the night. The houses looked so beautiful and peaceful. I had a Tunisian song, ‘MALGUIT’ by Jawhar, playing in my earphones.
Africa was literally right in front of my eyes, and in that moment, I felt happiness in every cell of my body. I was about to step onto another continent for the first time, into a country with a culture so different from my own, and I knew I was going to learn so much from it. From that moment on, I knew I would never be the same, and the experience ahead would shape my personality in ways I couldn’t imagine. The passport check and security went smoothly, they just check the reason of my my staying and where I was going to stay in Tunis
After going through everything, I had to find my local friend who was waiting for me at the airport. With no internet or SIM card, I had to search for him in the crowd. He was waiting outside — a tall, young guy with dark brown hair and a beard, speaking only French. My French wasn’t very fluent at the time, but I could manage basic conversation and understood well enough. I could tell he was trustworthy, though he seemed very serious. I couldn’t stop myself from expressing my excitement and started jumping like a happy kid — it felt like a dream. I had made it to Africa! Allaedinne was a bit shy and embarrassed by my enthusiasm.
We needed to find a taxi, but it was very late, past midnight, and no cars were passing by. Monastir was a small city, so I decided to stick out my thumb to hitchhike. He was shocked, though I wasn’t sure why — I just didn’t want to wait all night for a taxi. Any car could have helped us reach the city. He told me to calm down, but then a taxi stopped. There were two men inside, and no one was saying anything. I tried to make conversation, but they didn’t seem eager to talk. So, I yelled, ‘I’m in Africa!’ I couldn’t hold back my joy. They didn’t seem to understand me anyway. Allaedinne told me again to calm down, clearly embarrassed. Okay, okay, I told myself I’d calm down, but the happiness was literally boiling inside me.
We got to the accommodation. The streets were so beautiful, the weather so warm and the night so calming, I could feel It was welcoming me. Allaedinne actually travelled from his village to Monastir to welcome me, he also helped me find an accommodation and wanted to make sure the next day I will catch the bus to Tunis. I felt so grateful I was not alone and this guy I met on internet who was in charge to help travelers like me, was there for me and made such a great effort. It was the power of this great platform of travelers on internet I had the courage to try even in Africa.
The flat was not very clean, and definitely I was not going to have a shower in that bathroom, but who cares? I was in Africa, apparently everything is safe and calm. I was trying to have a conversation with him in my broken French and make him feel comfortable with me. I could understand that they don’t have contact with foreigners so much.
I gifted him a bottled a champagne from France and the famous soap from Provence. He told me he doesn’t drink alcohol because he’s Muslim, and that was the first thing I learned about them. I thought we were going to celebrate my arrival in Africa with a glass of champagne tonight, but apparently, I had to be content with just a good sleep. My bed wasn’t clean, but my friend had new, fresh sheets ready for me. That was my first night in Africa.
12th of December 2022
The next day, I had the chance to briefly visit Monastir. The streets were vibrant, full of people, and the sun was shining. I felt safe being there. My friend was going to be busy so I had to continue the tour by myself. I didn’t mind to have some time by myself and enjoy the new surroundings.
I’ve had my first contact to the old city of Maghreb countries called Medina in Monastir. As I approached the high, fortified walls, the gates stood as proud reminders of the medina’s medieval past. These gates were more than just entry points, they felt like gateways to another world, with their ornate carvings and grand arches inviting me in.
Walking through the Medina of Monastir felt like stepping into a living piece of history. The narrow, winding streets are lined with whitewashed buildings and vibrant, patterned doors, giving the medina a charming, timeless atmosphere. As I explored, I passed locals chatting outside small shops and vendors in the souks, selling everything from handcrafted goods to fragrant spices.
The busy locals quickly started to notice me — I was the only tourist, after all. Some of them approached and struck up conversations, inviting me to their shops. Many could speak French, Italian, and Spanish, so communicating was easy. I decided to practice my French.
I sat down at a café in the main square. It was mostly men sitting around, which didn’t surprise me— pretty typical in an Arab country—but I didn’t mind at all. I ordered a coffee and a croissant, and took a seat on the terrace. The sun was warm, and I was soaking in the atmosphere of the square and sunbathing. I felt completely relaxed, nothing was bothering me. The people around me had such a good energy, and even though I was a foreigner, I didn’t feel like an outsider. I could sense the warmth of these humble people; I felt seen and welcomed. It amazed me that I had to travel so far from home to feel at home, in a foreign African country.
I continued my short tour and reached out Ribat of Monastir, a historical fortress that sits by the sea, offering stunning views of the Mediterranean, especially from the top of its towers. It’s hard to imagine it was once a place of defense because it feels so peaceful now.
The architecture is simple but impressive, with open courtyards and arches letting the sunlight in. There’s a calmness here, as if the past still lingers quietly. It’s a place where history and serenity meet, and I felt connected to both.
A local boy approached me and showed me around a bit. I learned he was planning to go to university in Germany. I wondered why he would want to leave his home, but perhaps it was for the same reason people often leave — for a better life.
It was time to leave Monastir, so I took a taxi to the local bus station. A local had advised me to always ask for a taxi with a meter before getting in, to avoid being scammed.
Luckily, my local friend was waiting for me at the bus station. He had agreed to join me on the trip to the capital to show me the way, and then I would continue on my own. I don’t know what I would’ve done without him—it would have taken me a while to figure out how everything works. It turns out the buses don’t have fixed schedules. You just find one going in the direction of your destination, buy a ticket, and wait for the bus to fill up. Once it’s full, it leaves. It was not so bad; we didn’t wait much.
As the bus rolled into Tunis, I was immediately overwhelmed by the busyness of the city. The streets were packed with cars honking and weaving through traffic, and there were people everywhere, rushing in every direction. It felt like a world away from the quieter Monastir. The energy was intense, chaotic, and for a moment, I didn’t know where to focus. The sheer noise and movement made me feel small, but also excited—I was stepping into a whole new, vibrant part of my journey.
My friend showed me the train that would take me to my accommodation. Google Maps wasn’t much help with public transportation here, so I had to carefully follow my local friend’s instructions. I would’ve definitely felt lost without him, and I was grateful again for the power of the traveler community on the app I’d been using during this trip.
As I stepped onto the crowded metro in Tunis, anxiety crept in. It was packed, and the air felt heavy with sweat and noise. My local friend warned me about metro’s bad reputation for pickpockets and unsafe encounters, so I clutched the overhead rail tightly, keeping an eye on the people around me.
Squeezed between strangers, I felt every jolt of the train make me more alert. It was a mix of adrenaline and nervousness, but beneath it all, there was an excitement. This chaotic scene was part of the city’s charm, where everyone seemed to be in a hurry.
I get off to my station, and started to look for my Airbnb on the map. It was about 15-20 minutes on foot. As I wandered through the quieter neighborhoods of Le Bardo, I felt a sense of calm wash over me. The narrow streets were lined with charming villas, their faded colors and flowers and orange trees at their entrance. As I searched for my accommodation, I noticed how the pace of life here was slower, allowing me to soak in my surroundings. I felt grateful for this serene side of Le Bardo, where I could take a breath and truly appreciate the beauty of Tunis local life.
I arrived at my accommodation, owned by a very welcoming artist. It was beautifully decorated with her pieces of art, and I was going to have the entire flat to myself for a few days. Even though the flat was a bit far from the city center, I felt content in the safe neighborhood and the authentic local atmosphere. The internet was fast and I could work in tranquility for the rest of the day.
The first issue I had in Tunisia was food related. I was vegan that time and I didn’t find much to eat except vegetarian pizza, so for the first week and I had pizza every day. Only later I discovered dishes like Mechouia Salad, Kafteji, Lablabi and Fricassé as I was wandering in Medina.
Since I was working remotely, I spent my time between my neighborhood and the Medina.
Visiting the Medina of Tunis was like stepping again into a vibrant time capsule. As soon as I entered, I was greeted by a whirlwind of colors, sounds, and smells that enveloped me. The narrow streets looked like a maze, lined with shops selling everything from intricate pottery to beautiful textiles, like carpets and dresses. I loved getting lost among the stalls, each one showcasing unique crafts and local goodies. The atmosphere was buzzing with life—vendors calling out, the sizzling sound of street food being cooked, and the laughter of locals mingling.
Every corner I turned revealed a new surprise, whether it was a stunning mosque with intricate tile work or a cozy café where I could sit and watch people. Despite the hustle and bustle, there was a sense of warmth and hospitality that made me feel welcomed. It was such a delightful mix of chaos and charm, and I found myself wishing I could soak it all in forever.
I had to get used with this lifestyle as I got only a one-way ticket – so I’ve started to meet locals and be part of the Tunisian life.
The weekend was approaching, and I was hoping to find a local host. That’s when I met Ichrak, a girl living in the suburbs of Tunis with her sister and mom. She happily agreed to meet me and invited me to stay at their family home for the weekend. Ichrak was full of joy and laughter, a beautiful girl with long dark hair and striking Arab features. She was incredibly kind and friendly, welcoming me with such warmth into their humble home, and introduced me to her mother, who was just as lovely.
Ichrak showed me the room I’d be sharing with her and her sister. She put on some Arabic music, and soon we were dancing and laughing, with her teaching me a few oriental moves. I had just met this girl, and already it felt like we were sisters, having fun and sharing the same space. I was so happy to be there and to meet some of her other friends too.
Later, we had dinner—simple yet delicious homemade vegetarian dishes cooked by Ichrak’s mom. That night, I went to sleep feeling joyful and grateful, knowing I had found a new family in Tunisia.
The days that followed with Ichrak were magical. I spent time in her humble neighborhood and was surprised by how lively it was. Children played outside, there were small shops and fast-food restaurants, and people knew each other and visited one another regularly. There was life, even in the suburbs. I even got my first henna tattoo there.
Sunday, we went to Sidi Bou Saïd, taking a taxi and a train with Ichrak and her friends. Sidi Bou Saïd felt like walking through a dream, with its white-and-blue houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and stunning views of the Mediterranean. The vibe was calm but full of life. I remember sipping mint tea at Café des Délices overlooking the sea, with the scent of jasmine in the air and a gentle breeze, enjoying the company of my new friends. The local art, from pottery to paintings, is everywhere, and the people are friendly without being pushy. It’s a place where time slows down, perfect for wandering and soaking in the beauty.
After spending some time in Sidi Bou Saïd, we went back to Tunis, in the city centre to see Medina by night. We have been roaming around singing and laughing, enjoying together the Tunisian night vibe. When we were heading back home, I met for the first time Ichrak’s sister, who was coming back from work.
Soon, it was time to leave and continue my journey. However, it was hard to say goodbye to my new friends and their family. I will miss Ichrak’s pure energy — laughing like a child, hugging me, and spending time together. I will miss her lovely mom, who treated me like her third daughter, taking care of me, cooking for me, and even washing my clothes by hand because their washing machine was broken and they wouldn’t let me leave with dirty clothes. I’ll also miss Shyraz and her sister, Ichrak’s friends, who were so sweet and offered me their friendship during my stay. These are the people who fill my heart with love and make me appreciate life even more.
My first days in Tunisia were unforgettable, and I left Tunis with a full heart, ready for more meaningful experiences. This time, I was heading to the Tunisian countryside.
To be continued…
